Sunday, November 23, 2014

Hollow Pumpkin Candy Center Table Favor

Adorn your Thanksgiving or Harvest table
with this slice form candy favor decorated with veined leaf,
vine spirals and name tag.
Pumpkin goes together as a slice form
(six hollow shapes join together along half-shape center perforations)
to contain a wrapped spherical candy treat 
such as Lindor brand truffles.
(Pop suckers will also work with the stick extending up
through the center "hole".)

1. Cut the shapes for one pumpkin place card.
6 slice form pumpkin sides
1 each: leaf, name tag
2 vine curl strips

2. Fold each of the slice form sides on the center short perforation lines. The bottom center has ONE line. The top center has TWO. (The top of the pumpkin will have a narrow opening so that the candy wrap or stick can be inserted through.)

3. Apply glue to one half only of the first slice form, then align the corresponding half of the second slice and glue the two together.

4. Prepare one half of the second (newly added in step 3 above) slice by applying glue as before, then aligning and joining the corresponding half of the third slice.

As the slices are joined, a "hole" will form at the center top . . . 

. . . but at the bottom, the sides will come together snugly so that no hole forms.

5. Continue adding the slices as done for the first three. When all six are joined, join the final side of #6 and #1 to complete the circle (or should that be "sphere"?).

Here, again, you can see the top of the completed pumpkin with the hex opening.

6. Add some curl to the leaf tip by rolling it across a tool handle or side of a scissors blade (think curling ribbon).

7. Curl the vine strips tightly around a dowel or knitting needle or similar tool so that the strip forms a nice spiral when released.

8. For the Lindor truffle candies, tightly twist the wrapper end that will be the top . . .

. . . then place the candy globe inside the pumpkin's hollow, and insert the twisted end through the top hex opening. Pull the end through as far as possible.

9. Insert the end through the leaf and slide the leaf down as snugly as possible.

10. Glue the ends of the vine curls to opposite side slices near the pumpkin's top.

11. Prepare the tags with printed or written names, then thread each onto the wrapper end.

(You may also wish to flare the bottom wrapper end and arrange to help the candy sit center in the hollow.)

Here is the finished place card pumpkin.

3d Nativity Boxes Stable Backdrop Assembly

Now available as a cut file for purchase and download
are this large backdrop and dimensional hanger star 
for the nativity 3d boxes series.
Stable is built with cubic beams that slide together. 
Stable measures 15” tall x 9” wide x 3” deep. Star measures 4” across. 

1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A upright column beams (2)
B column "feet" shapes (2)
C cross beam shape with D end add-on
E back slat wall connector
F slat wall lower front accent shape

G pediment cross beam with H end
I & J pediment angled beam support poles
(left and right)
K pediment left angle beam
L pediment right angle beam with M add-on
N hang pole for star

2. Fold the upright beam on vertical perforations to form a tube. Overlap straight long edge to opposite perforation line, adjust so that top and bottom perf lines align, then glue. (NOTE it is possible to flatten the tube during the gluing step to apply even pressure along the tab.)

3. Fold the two edge tabs of column bottom end inward, apply glue to tabs, then tuck into tube end and glue in place. (NOTE this angle does not show it, but the opening allows for easy access to apply pressure to glue tabs.)

4. Prepare the "foot" stabilizing extension by folding on longer perf lines and tab to form a rough tube. On the partial wall, fold the tab inward, align at the opposite straight edge, adjust so that the (left here) edges line up, then glue tab under edge.

5. Fold angled-end tabs inward, apply glue, then tuck into the tube end and apply pressure until secure.

6. Dry-test inserting the left and right feet shapes into the bottom front opening of the columns. The fit should be snug.

Withdraw, apply glue to surfaces that will adhere, reinsert and apply pressure until secure. Make sure the foot back is securely inserted into the corners, and that the assembly forms a true "L" or right angle so that the stable will stand perpendicular to table top.

On the bottom, the two cut edges should abutt.

7. Assemble the cross beam by folding on perf lines to form a tube.

Fold end tabs inward, then end up and glue to form box-like ends.

Fold center long tab inward, fold bottom wall inward so that back tab extension edge in-cuts line up with perf line. (Imagine the beam's straight edge as though the tabs were not there, then align and glue tab along "edge" accordingly.)

8. Assemble the pediment support poles by folding to form a tube. Bring the long vertical straight edge to overlap the tab perf line, adjust at top and bottom and glue.

9. Insert the pole tab end into the square openings at the top of the cross beam (from step 7) until tab perfs are aligned at opening edges.

Make sure that the left and right posts are installed so that the angles of the top of each slant downward toward SIDES of the cross beam. This image shows the right end as seen from front.

10. On the inside of the cross beam, fold the pole tabs outward and glue in place.

11. Place the cross beam onto the upright columns by inserting column top into end opening (below poles position). 

Glue together the surfaces that touch on the inside.

12. On the backside of the lower stable assembly, center the slat wall (face side to the front of the stable; this shot shows the work from the back side) between the parallel columns so that the tab extensions from cross beam line up behind the center and outer slats. 

True up the wall to square. Glue the tabs to the slat wall, and the slat wall side tabs to the backs of the columns.

13. Align and attach the bottom slat wall side tabs to the bottom back of each column.

14. On the front of the assembly, position and attach the accent slat at the bottom of the slat wall.

15. Prepare the pediment (upper) section cross beam similar to previous cross beam. The pediment cross beam has open areas on both the top and bottom faces.

16. Prepare the right pediment angled beam by joining the add-on shape at the lower side tab.

This is how the joined shape should look. 

17. Prepare both left and right angled beam shapes by folding all perforations back.

18. Bend down the center extension and fold side extensions inward to form an angled tube. Join edges to corresponding tabs.

The forward-most face in this image is the underneath wall of the left angled wall, which folds under to connect with a tab to the back angled lower edge.

Here is the assembled/built left pediment angled unit. The half hex cutout will wrap around the post peg of the completed right angled member.

19. Prepare the post to hang the star on by folding the shape on the long perforation lines to form a tube.

Overlap the long straight edge over the tab, apply glue, join. It will be helpful to insert a narrow rod shape such as a knitting needle of skewer into the tube to provide a pressure surface for gluing.

20. Fold the top mini-tabs downward, then insert into the tube as the top is positioned at the end of the peg tube.

21. Insert the tabs end of the peg through the front hex hold of the right pediment angled beam, then through the back hex hole.

22. Fold the tabs outward and glue in place on the backside of angled beam.

23. Join the left and right angled beams at the center top tab.

Swing the beams out of the way to apply pressure to the tab that is inserted under the edge of the left beam.

When the tab seam is secure, swing the beams down into their finished position, with the right center lower "corners" of front and back sliding behind the left miter edges. Apply glue where the surfaces overlap, and hold until secure.

24. Insert the pediment top unit into the pediment cross beam top surface end openings as shown. Glue in place.

25. Slide the pediment top unit into its final position by inserting support posts of bottom section through openings, then sliding pediment downward until it rests fully on the angled top edges of the posts.

26. To ensure that the top and bottom sections stay together, attach the joining strips at sides of assembly on the back.

1. Prepare the star shapes as shown: 
back star, hang tab, front stat with accent shapes in place.

2. Fold the star on the face perforations so that the long (center to point) perforations fold as "mountain" folds, and the others fold as 'valley" folds. Fold edge tabs back.

3. Add accent shapes to the facets of the front star.

4. Add glue to tabs of either top or bottom star. Layer the front and back with right sides outward, so that edges align, and all edge tabs and inside the star.

5.  Apply pressure to all edges EXCEPT top center point, where the hang tab will be inserted between layers in the next step.

6. Insert hang tab between front and back star, adjusting to be centered evenly, and also with point at the tiny guide perfs below hex hole.

7. Re-apply glue to front and back point tab surfaces as needed, then apply pressure to adhere all surfaces.

8. This shot shows the star as it should appear from the side, to give an idea of its "puffy" dimension.

To achieve this depth, gently push the points simultaneously in toward the center of the star.

9. Place the star on the stable by slipping the hex hole of the hanger over the peg. 

Here are a few images of the finished stable.